Burger House

When it comes to good burgers, Tulsa is richly blessed — and one of the greatest blessings can be found in a nondescript little shack on Edison Street.

From the outside, Burger House — an old drive-in at 4020 W. Edison St. — isn’t much to look at, but you don’t come to a place called “Burger House” for atmosphere. You come for old-fashioned hamburgers.

We stopped at Burger House last week on the heels of a trip to Ted’s, which is also on Edison. We were pretty full by the time we got there, but that didn’t stop us from splitting one of the best bacon cheeseburgers I’ve ever eaten.

In most cases, bacon is just a socially acceptable way of saying, “Add some gratuitous salt and grease to that burger, would you? Thanks.” You order bacon because people look at you funny if you order a burger with extra salt and a couple of pats of butter.

At Burger House, the bacon is a delightful culinary experience unto itself: thin, crispy, delicate, with a lovely flavor that serves as a nice complement to the beef patty’s respectable heft.

When we placed our order, we were warned in advance that it would take a little while, because the lot was filled with cars when we arrived, and I’m sure there were a few call-ins ahead of us, too. Dining is carryout only. The “lobby” is little more than an unheated porch closed in with waferboard and storm windows and decorated with old license plates, but speakers mounted on top ensured that we could hear our number from the comfortable confines of the Starlight Express.

Being the proud owner of a rat terrier road warrior, I’m accustomed to dashboard dining, so I found the ambience perfectly acceptable. Next time I go, I’ll bring a bigger appetite so I can sample the fries as well.

Grades
Value: A
Service: B
Convenience: B
Product: A+
Overall: A-

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~ by redforkhippie on February 17, 2007.